Monday, April 22, 2013

Yo dejé mi corazon en Cusco

     I have been preparing myself for this since Shelby left Cusco. After a couple of days of letting it soak in, I´m finally ready to write this blog post. The most bittersweet blogpost I´ll ever have to write. My last day volunteering was last Friday April 19. I moved out of the San Pedro house yesterday. The last couple weeks have been wonderful. Not to mention, Dra. Mildred working my butt off before I left :)

     For the past couple of weeks, my fellow volunteer and fellow nurse, Sherin, and I conducted physical exams on the children and adults at Hogar de Madre Teresa de Calcuta. Cusco´s assisted living home for the disabled. There were 25 children. Their diagnoses ranged from Down´s syndrome, autism, mental retardation, cerebral palsy, and various congenital deformities, as well as malnutrition. Each morning we could only get through 4 or 5 children´s exams and it took at least the 2 of us nurses. Most of them couldn´t walk or talk. It was heart-breaking to see one child, who was 5 years old, but looked like he was barely 1 year old. He had hydrocephaly along with many other congenital deformities, malnutrition, and was years behind developmentally. He looked uncomfortable and in pain all the time. I couldn´t believe that he has been living for this long. It is rather impressive that he is still alive. However, I couldn´t help but question, why would God let this person continue living in such pain? It´s not that I don´t value human life. I do. But suffering from malnutrition and pain 24/7 is not living or humane. 
        The experience as a whole was very meaningful. These children were beautiful and had their own personalities and expressed themselves their own way. It felt rewarding to be able to put my nursing skills to good use. The following weeks we did vital signs on the adults. There were a total of 50 men and women. Most of them were high-functioning. We got through these patients much faster than the children. 
       The Sisters of the Charity (Mother Teresa´s order of nuns) run this assisted living home. These nuns, volunteers, and physical therapists are just amazing. They are all so cheerful and happy. El Hogar de Madre Teresa is one of the happiest places I have ever had the privilege to serve. In acute care, a lot of nurses get burned out working at hospitals. They get pretty unpleasant. These nuns and volunteers work there everyday. It is so inspiring to see that they are the opposite of being burned out. Their strength of spirit blew me away. 

       In the afternoons, I would spend time with my kids at the leukemia ward. My last week of volunteering was solely dedicated to spending my days with them. We had lots of fun making bracelets, playing Uno, and cards, doing their homework, and coloring or drawing. Last Saturday was our leukemia unit´s 4th anniversary. One nurse told me to arrive Saturday morning at 9, and another told me to arrive at 10. Naturally, I arrived at 9:30. Of course, I walked in late to the mini-Mass service at the entrance room. It was a lovely service by a funny priest. The kids got in line and brought in the offerings. It was precious. At the end of the mass some of the kids performed by singing or dancing, or both. I´ve got some good videos of them. The unit even hired a musician to come play music for the kids. So we spent a couple hours dancing and singing with him. No Peruvian party is complete without alcohol and food. They served some wine and some pretty good chicharon and potatoes. There were lots of doctors and hospital administrators that came to the party, too. The kids and I had a lot of fun.
 
Dra. Gladys, the main oncologist at UTLI
(Unidad de Tratamento de Leucemia Infantil)
 
Too cute
 
Our brave new girl

      I was hoping I would be able to keep myself together when the time came for me to go and say goodbye to my kids. They have known for over a month that I was leaving. We were all counting down the days to the final goodbye. I gave my first hug and immediately started crying. Her mom gave me a pair of earrings, any pair that I wanted from the box, as a remembrance gift. I couldn´t tell her that I´m allergic to most metals, so I just picked a pair of little moons. It was very thoughtful of her. Then another mom gave me an alligator keychain (I think I have one from almost every kid now lol. They make them with beads and string) and then she started crying too! Oh what a bittersweet, lovely mess it was. I made each kid a goodbye letter with a picture of us attached. I handed them out, gave them all tearful hugs, and said goodbye. Only at the end did the little ones realize that I wasn´t coming back.
 
Group picture on my last day


Dra Mildred. Maximo Nivel´s medical placement directora

     On my last night out on the town with my housemates. We ALL went out. We also dubbed it alpaca sweater day. I don´t know why, but it was great. We were a mob of 16 gringos strutting down Cusco in our alpaca sweaters and poncho. We went out to eat at a Korean restaurant. A legit Korean restaurant! There were real Koreans cooking! It was spicy and wonderful. We were all sniffling our noses throughout the entire dinner.Used up all their napkins, haha. Then we danced the night away and I came home with a falafal from my favorite little falafal restaurant. It was a successful ¨last night out¨.

San Pedro alpaca day family photo

My last night out AND Juliana´s birthday!

6 months living in Cusco and what have I gained? I have made many new friends from the volunteers that have come and go in my house. It has been inspiring to meet so many people with good hearts who want to make a difference in the world. The wonderful women who work at San Pedro house who have been with me through these months have become my Cusco family. I love them. They have taken good care of me, especially when I have been sick. I have learned Spanish. I have made Peruvian friends who love to help me with my Spanish and who want to practice their English. I have fallen in love with my kids at the leukemia ward. I learned how unique a child´s love is and how much it means. Most of all, after becoming so jaded working in a hospital in the states, and seeing more bad than good, I have rediscovered what it´s like to hope again. To have faith in people again. To see Good again.

Thank you Cusco. Thank you fellow volunteers. Thank you doctors, nurses, and especially the kids at UTLI. Thank you Maximo Nivel. I have been changed for good.

Now off to exploring South America! But I have left my heart in Cusco.
 

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Family Spring Break

    After 5 and a half months, I got to see my parents and little brother again. Unfortunately, my brother, Lanz, couldn´t make the trip :( Missed you, Lanz! Wished you were with us!
Gabe was on his high school spring break, so they were here in Cusco for 5 days. My family arrived on Easter Sunday morning. We went to Easter mass at the Catedral de Cusco, in Spanish of course. I finally got to see the giant Last Supper painting, famous for having a cuy (guinea pig) at the center of the last supper table. Little known fact: Jesus and his apostles ate cuy. Sunday was spent mostly resting. It´s rough going from sea level to 11,000 ft elevation. 

    Unfortunately for Gabe, the altitude hit him hard and he was sick for the next 2 days. While he was resting at the hotel, I promised him that I would only take mom and dad to boring places, like churches and markets lol. On Tuesday afternoon, Gabe had enough of being sick and wanted to get out of the hotel and go to our chocolate-making workshop at the Choco Museo. We took walking nice and slow, and with the help of powerade and a liquid only diet, he made it through the whole workshop and the rest of the afternoon at the markets. At the chocolate workshop, we learned about the process of growing cacao trees and turning cacao fruit into chocolate. Then we got to make our own chocolates.  

With our chocolate workshop teacher, Gladys

    Wednesday was our big day. We woke up bright and early for our 1 day trip to Machu Picchu. We were picked up by a van to the Ollantaytambo train station. The train ride was beautiful. Although I had already seen the sights when I hiked through them on my trek to Machu Picchu back in December, it was still breathtaking. Once we arrived in the town of Aguas Calientes, we took a bus up to Machu Picchu and met our tour guide. We had a 2 hour historical tour of the ancient city. Luckily for us, the weather was beautiful. The sun was out and it was a clear day. In fact, it was a little too hot, even. It was my second time in Machu Picchu, and I don´t think I can ever get tired of this place. It´s just too pretty. 

Machu Picchu 
(don´t worry, Lanz, we´re going to photo-shop you in this one)

Gabe, Mom and Dad with Wayna Picchu in the background

     On Thursday, we went to the sun temple, ¨Q´orikancha¨, in Cusco. It is now the Convento de Santo Domingo. When the Spaniards conquered Cusco, they stripped Q´orikancha of it´s gold. Literally tons of gold. The sun temple was gold-plated and had lots of gold statues inside. Then the Catholic order of the Dominicans built the convent and church, plop, right on top of Q´orikancha. The base of the Convento de Santo Domingo is the original Incan walls, still standing strong after all this time. Its museum is a juxtoposition of Incan ruins, Spanish-colonial architecture, and works of Catholic art. That evening we had our last family dinner in Cusco at one of my favorite restaurants at the Plaza de Armas: Fuegos (Fire!). My parents got to try 2 Peruvian delicacies: cuy (guinea pig) and alpaca. Later that night, I took my parents with me to a free salsa class at one of the discotecas in the plaza. They sure enjoyed dancing. So much that when salsa was over, and the typical ¨club¨music started playing, my parents continued dancing lol. I´m glad they had fun. That was a new experience for me: being at a club with my parents, hah.

Dinner at Fuegos

      On Friday morning, I took my parents to my leukemia ward to visit my kids and introduce them to the doctors and nurses I work with. We hung out and played with the kids for about an hour. The kids really enjoyed playing Uno with Gabe. That afternoon, my family boarded their plane to take their long journey back home to San Francisco. Like Gabe, said, ¨This spring break is going to be hard to top¨.